Embla

There’s nothing better when something is simple, but simply perfect. 

Embla, the newest venture from the team that brought you Town Mouse (which y’all know I simply adore), was somewhere I had dropped by for a drink when they first opened, but just never made it around for dinner. Until your friend Chris from Brisbane randomly drops in on a Monday night and it’s simply perfect timing. 

Located on Russell Street, the wine bar (they have been quite specific in the media that they’re not a restaurant…yet) is a like a warm cavern in the distance on a cold winter’s night; candlelight flickering and casting shadows across the timber heavy interiors which give it the feeling of age, grandeur, but intimacy all in one breath. It’s cosy, and it’s easy to get lost in the selection of wine and top-notch hospitality. 

I love the wine list, the wine by the glass list is punchy, selected and not too long, but with enough things on it that aren’t familiar on it - so it’s fun to get adventurous. 

The food menu is quite similar, not too long, punchy, selected, with lots of charred items that enjoy some time in the scorching wood fire oven that looks like a dragon is opening it’s mouth every time the door is opened to pop something in, or on the charcoal open grill. 

A plate of anchovy toast is whisked on to our table, a must, and it’s easy to see why. Hit of salt, hit of umami, hit of crunch, it whets the palate beautifully. 

Duck liver parfait is something I can never go past, and Embla’s was a generous serve of perfectly smooth and velvety goodness. Loved the pickled radish on the side to offset the richness. Was also very kind of them to top up our quickly dwindling bowl of lavosh which I wasn’t expecting (otherwise I would’ve not held back!) 

When I see pine mushrooms on the menu, being in season (when I visited Embla), it’s impossible to say no. Served so simply (a theme you’ll see ongoing through the night) with rosemary and soured buttermilk, my only wish was that there would be more. Perfectly cooked, the buttery and meatiness of the pine mushrooms was accentuated beautifully.

Wood roasted broccoli with sunflower seed miso is not much to look at, or so one may think, tree trunks of broccoli charred to black on the outside, but so sweet and tender on the inside. I’m also totally obsessed with broccoli (as a kid I actually drew ‘steamed broccoli, chicken and rice’ as my favourite dish for a homework task) so couldn’t get enough of this.

Ongoing theme yet again, but the half roast chicken was everything you could ask for. So juicy and delightful, but surprisingly, the roasted garlic was one of the most delightful components. Roasted until so soft that it’s sweet - it perfectly accompanied the chicken. Make sure you and your dining partners all have one (or enjoy them all and let the others suffer).

We also enjoyed the roasted celeriac, I forgot what it was served with (it’s a wine bar, sue me for forgetting), but at the end of the meal when Chris and I were trying to decide our favourite dishes, this one definitely came up for me. I loved the crisp and charred edges and how comforting, homely and filling the dish was. Reminiscent for me of Town Mouse’s roasted cabbage, and the way it makes me feel. You’ll have to forgive my vague flavour profile notes…this was one of the last savoury dishes we had after a couple glasses of wine!

Chris and I had the great honour of being one of the first people to try a new dessert on the menu that evening, a lemon curd tart made with a white sesame pastry, black sesame sugar and bananas with lemon/citrus. 

Oh my goodness. So sublime. Perfectly zesty, and sweet, but also refreshing. Great smooth texture, and absolutely loved the extra level of flavour the sesame brought to the citrus palate. We were recommended a glass of yuzushu, which was absolutely perfect and highly recommended. 

For only being a wine bar, the food offering is pretty solid and also solidly filling. Pretty sure I rolled out of there at the end of the night, although it’s almost tempting to never leave with the most warm and welcoming of service (always always take their recommendations - everyone there knows what they’re doing), cosy atmosphere and obviously delicious food and wine. 

Embla is just making the simple, simply magic - and that’s all there is to that. 

Embla

122 Russell Street

Melbourne 3000

 

West of Kin

Disclosure: I was invited to dine as a guest of the restaurant

As a Melbourne foodie, I’m definitely the adventurous sort - happy to try just about anything…but I’m definitely on the lazy side. 

Which is why I haven’t explored the west side of Melbourne, probably as much as I should, especially at the moment, with lots of interesting new restaurants and cafes popping up all over the place. 

West of Kin is an unexpected little oasis in a rather industrial area in the West of Melbourne in Braybrook. Although fresh this particular evening, the lovely courtyard outside the restaurant, and floor to impossibly high ceiling windows at the front of the restaurant would be absolutely charming in warmer weather. 

The ex-ETA Foods Factory that they reside in is heritage listed, so the crew had to get creative with the interior, but have succeeded in a fit out that’s contemporary, blending the old with new, but also warm and cosy. I just loved the lighting - so moody!

The food at West of Kin is Asian fusion, and man, they pack a punch in the flavours! From the first dish of abalone congee with house made XO sauce, crunchy wild rice, spring onions and fried shallots I was completely taken by the big flavours that were also so familiar and so comforting. The congee was the perfect thick consistency, the XO sauce so rich and the black rice providing such an unexpected but delightful crunch - and all those fried shallots? So much flavour, so much texture, so delicious. Although the first dish, it was probably one of my favourites for the evening (although they also serve tis dish for breakfast/lunch). 

Cho-gochu-jang ceviche king fish with avruga caviar, almond cream, quail egg yolk, sea cucumber, ice plant and kelp infused oil is beautifully silky, and again, I love the textures through the dish, from the crispness of the ice plant to the creamy egg yolk. The gochujang was punching with flavour too.

The summer kimchi with nachi pear and pistachio, is everything we love about kimchi, but dialled back a bit and made just a tiny bit sweeter and al little more refreshing. I really enjoyed the nutty addition of the pistachios. 

I did not do this dish any justice with my photos! The imitation squid ink cannelloni with prawn and squid filling, wasabi pea puree, smoked yoghurt, viola, sesame and yuzu granita is definitely on the very ‘fusion’ end of Asian fusion! Despite it’s look, the cannelloni is smooth and tender, easily cut through and lovely and creamy. 

Our next item on the menu was simply called ‘Traditional West of Kin salad (we dare you)!’. Interesting. The salad arrived at our table, loaded with coriander, Vietnamese mint and looking lush and green. Being the initiator I am, I started mixing up the salad to serve out and couldn’t help but grin with delight at what I saw come up. 

No wonder they didn’t want to spell out all the ingredients, as I’m sure some would baulk away from it. Amongst all the herbs, hid some tripe and spleen (sorry to give away the secret guys). In all honesty, this and the abalone congee were my favourite dishes of the night. I absolutely loved how refreshing the salad was and the huge kick of chilli with the cooling mint and coriander and peanuts with it. The tripe and spleen itself were just delicious - but hey if you don’t like it, I’ll take your share. No problem!

Another stellar dish was the deep fried flounder with pips in black bean sauce, crunchy wild rice and can nouc. Again vibrant with flavours, possibly one of the most aromatic black bean sauces I’ve had in a while and perfect with the sweet and utterly delicious flounder. 

By the time the Korean bossam with braised pork belly, summer kimchi, seasonal salad and herbs, ssamjang and house made XO sauce came out - I was about ready to burst! I got a bit lazy and didn’t quite DIY a whole bun together, but I did sample a bit of the pork and although a little anaemic looking, gorgeously tender and melted in your mouth. 

We finish on a sweet note naturally, with Valhorna chocolate mousse with fresh and freeze dried raspberries. Classic, not overly sweet and lovely and cocoa-y. 

The Taiwanese pineapple cake with coconut ice-cream was also punchy with flavour - I found the cake a tad dry for my tastes, although I liked the flavour but the coconut ice-cream was just divine. 

The calibre of food at West of Kin was outstanding, and I think it’s amazing that the owners have taken the punt of getting out of town and bringing something new to the area. It’s definitely some of the most vibrantly flavoured, interesting and yet comforting and familiar flavours I’ve had recently. I only wish it was closer…or I could just be a little less lazy! Been thinking about revisiting for brunch, where congee and soup noodle breakfast dishes are calling in the frosty, frosty weather…

West of Kin

17 Lacy Street

Braybrook 3019

 

Vaporetto

I love Vaporetto. 

I love how cosy it is, how accessible it is, and the fact that it is in Hawthorn. As Melbourne continues to be saturated in the CBD and in general with cafes, it’s interesting seeing interesting, and very good, suburban restaurants pop up. I know Hawthorn’s not super suburban - but it ain’t the city. 

From the get go Vaporetto is cosy and intimate, as you squeeze your way through the front bar where Aperol spritz and Sangiovese are poured cheerfully, and are seated in the restaurant. 

There are various seating options, from your standard tables, the outdoor courtyard, the mezzanine, and my favourite spot - which we were lucky enough to get, right by the kitchen where one becomes mesmerised by the sights, sounds and smells. 

And oh my, the food! 

As the name suggests, Vaporetto is inspired by the owner’s love affair with Venice, and the food is quintessential Italian - Venetian classics to be more specific with all the best that Melbourne has to offer. It’s casual and light, but elegant food that packs a punch. 

Soft squid ink polenta with dressed Spanner crab, parmesan, chill and wild fennel pollen to begin with was just beautiful. Comforting, but so vibrant as well, with a solid kick of chilli and a bit of richness from the parmesan too. 

Grilled calamari with pine mushrooms, Jerusalem artichoke, smoked eel and farro was also beautifully balanced, a seafood dish that was surprisingly earthy and very appropriate for autumn. Loved the char on the calamari too!

The mains are pure comfort. Brad’s gnocchi with rabbit argue, porcini, black truffle, salt bush and truffled Pecorino is everything you want in this weather at the moment. Fluffy, light gnocchi, crisp fried salt bush and just overall hearty goodness. I definitely poked my fork into Brad’s plate a multitude of times. 

I on the other hand, opted for the Hunter Valley spatchcock, butterflied and marinated with white truffle and sage which had me reminiscing of a similar style dish my last visit to Italy some years ago. I love how simply it is presented, just beautifully cooked spatchcock that is juicy and moreish, simply but deliciously marinated. This is really my kind of food. 

I’m such a sucker for cauliflower, so of course had it with pancetta, hazelnut and pine nuts, parsley and truffled Pecorino on the side. Loved how tender the cauliflower was, and it’s really just a marriage made in heaven with cheese and pancetta no?

To finish, roasted quinces, chocolate and fig and mascarpone ice-cream. Another beautifully balanced dish, that Brad actually tucks into as well as it’s not too sweet. I’m not usually a fan of quinces, but I enjoyed the smooth texture that Vaporetto managed to get and the chocolate is just insanely cocoa-y and lovely. 

Vaporetto really hits a sweet spot in Hawthorn, absolutely breaking every Italian restaurant cliche. The food is vibrant, full of flavour - and quite unexpected (I mean spanner crab and polenta?). The atmosphere is warm and cosy and hospitality is true Italian style - like you’re in their home. Could you ask for much more? 

Vaporetto 

Rear 681 Glenferrie Rd

Hawthorn (Enter via Grace St) 

VIC 3122

Dinner with the Angels - A Gastronomique Affair

Last year, I had the great pleasure of attending Anglicare Victoria’s Gatronomique event - which is an absolutely fabulous evening raising money for the great work they do in looking after the futures of children, young people, families and adults. Anglicare Victoria is the largest foster care provider, and over 2014-15 placed 2091 babies, children and young people with foster carers. 

This year, the annual Gala Dinner has been newly renamed ‘Dinner with the Angels - A Gastronomique Affair’, but still has all our favourite things - great chefs, great food, great cause. 

Chefs and restaurants kindly donate their time and produce, to deliver a spectacular feed to the hundreds of people who attend the evening. Last year, I had the great pleasure of being seated at a table that Estelle Bistro, and therefore Scott Pickett, was serving and our meal was pure delight.

Delicate green tomato and mozzarella (I think) entrees, followed by great big share plates of pork and heirloom carrots makes the evening social and very much an evening of sharing. 

This year Scott Pickett is once again taking part, but other chefs you could also be enjoying the food of include:

Nicky Riemer from Union Dining

Dusty Treweek from Bottega

James Kummrow from Fatto

Matt Dempsey from Gladioli

Zac Cribbes from Lucy Liu

Stuart Munro from Merricote

Peter Roddy from Noir

Tim Goegan from Supernormal

Tony Twitchett from Taxi Kitchen

Stuart Bell from Ten Minutes by Tractor

Andy Harmer from The Point Albert Park

Graham Jeffries from Tulip

Rhys Blackley from Circa

Ed Navghare from Tonka

…amongst others! Talk about a star studded evening of cuisine! 

Between the food, touching stories from people who’ve benefited from Anglicare Victoria’s aid, great music and entertainment (Caryn and I burnt up the dance floor!) and amusing auctions, you’re in for a great night. I definitely can’t wait to attend again this year. 

Date: Wednesday 7 September 2016 - 6:30pm - 11:45pm

Venue: Peninsula, Central Pier, 161 Harbour Esplanade, Docklands, Melbourne

Tickets: $300 per person (includes a $150.00 donation for which a tax receipt will be issued)

www.dinnerwiththeangels.org.au

(03) 9412 6133