Showing posts with label New York. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York. Show all posts

Monday, January 13, 2014

America - New York - Momofuku Ssam + Craft New York

It's amazing that, even though Brad and I spent a week in New York, I still felt short of time to do everything I wanted, and still had to omit so much stuff out of my ideal itinerary. Like I keep telling everyone, by the end of each day we would be so tired, rather than go out and experience much of the nightlife…we went to sleep.

There were two nights that we went to pubs. Other than that we didn't even make it to a single bar the whole trip…can you imagine?!

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On day 5, we woke up and wandered on down through the Flatiron District, making our way to Union Square.

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We passed by Madison Square Park, where we had our first Shake Shack, and where I fell in love with a milkshake. I wrote about my infatuation in an earlier post.

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We made our way down to Union Square to check out the farmers market, open Monday, Wednesday, Fridays and Saturdays, from 8am to 6pm. 

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I love the feel of a farmer market in the middle of a concrete playground. The life, the buzz and the energy. From flowers, to maple syrup, to all kinds of fresh produce, it was not hard to be enthused by everything. 

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Also squirrels. Squirrels rolling around in the cool earth right behind the bench we were sitting on. So cute.

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I discovered this coconut water at Whole Foods Market, which is the only alternative I've found to drinking the coconut water straight out of the coconut. I've been seduced by so many pretty looking coconut water packagings, only to be let down by a coconut water with a slightly artificial flavour, that I never thought it could be done. But lo and behold, it has been done! Sure, it's a bit expensive, but damn. It is good. 

From there, we strolled on into East Village, which is probably one of my favourite districts in Manhattan. It's just cool there. And also there's a Buffalo Exchange which I went wild in. Again. At least I managed to convince Brad to pick up a few things too...!

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And Momofuku Ssam Bar is there, so I dragged Brad in, out of the random downpour that came out of nowhere, for a little afternoon snack of the ever famous steamed pork buns, with pork belly, hoisin and cucumbers. Goodness. They really are just perfect. And make a great size for a wee snack.

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I also couldn't resist the duck heart dish, which came on top of a yoghurt, with a spot of rhubarb, and I can't remember what else. It was a bit strange, but I totally loved it at the same time. Who ever thought duck heart could have a light and refreshing flavour? 

The rain had let up by the time we finished our little snack, and so we made our way to the Highline…which I also missed on my last trip to New York. Go figure.

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And man, I can't believe I did miss it! Although we didn't walk from beginning to end, we still wandered down a good chunk of it and it's really a beautiful reprieve from the hustle and bustle below. There's a lovely mix of greenery, clean modern lines and fun pops of graffiti or sculpture. 

This history behind the space, an abandoned railway line, is really cool too, which is shared through a few information boards and it's just amazing to think of the work that's gone into it to give it back as a public space. New York, you so cool, it really almost hurts.

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Towards the south end of the Highline, there's a great water feature area to kick back, and cool off your toes in, a real blessing in summer. 

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Also a blessing in summer, People's Pops at the end of the Highline with a bunch of other food and drink stalls. I think I may have had blackberry with something. So refreshing after all that walking!

That night we dolled up a bit and made our way back to the Flatiron District for dinner (getting caught up in a massive downpour on the way) at a restaurant I had been hanging out all trip to visit, Craft.

As I mentioned in my 2013 roundup, I'm a huge fan of Top Chef, as I feel although more product placement has been sneaking in, the judges and mentors are very honest, constructive and fair in their feedback and thoughts. There's never any pretentiousness, which I find tends to find it's way into Australia's reality tv a bit more. 

Tom Colicchio has been the head judge on the show, every season, since season one and so, having come to respect him through my computer screen, had been dying to see if his restaurant would be at the same standards as he holds on the show. 

Although I don't normally give my overall conclusion front up, I have to say, I was totally blown away, probably my favourite meal in America. 

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When Brad and I first stepped in from the small entrance into the stunning dining room, filled with warm wood and leather tones, elegantly dangled bulbs and a sense of hush, I was at first a little bit intimidated. We were probably the youngest couple there and I was worried at first we might get snubbed, or that our experience at Craft might feel a bit uptight and uncomfortable, as some 'fine-dining' places tend to. 

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But once we were taken to our seats, I had nothing to fear, as service through the night proved to be the perfect balance of friendly and professional, inviting us to relax but feel indulged at the same time.

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The menu at Craft is quite minimalist, if I may say, with limited description of the dishes, highlighting just the method of cooking, such as 'Roasted' and listing the proteins underneath. Like many restaurants, there's a focus on beautiful local ingredients, and it's great at Craft that their producers are listed on the menu as well. 

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I regretfully didn't take any notes on our meal, focussed instead of enjoying my meal (which we were treating as my belated birthday dinner), but I will try to recap what I can!

We started our meal with a bottle of wine, a 2010 Riesling from Brooklyn Oenology in Seneca Lake, aptly named Friend. On top of having a totally adorable label with hand drawn animals on it (according to the website, a portion of sales from every 'Friend' Riesling will be donated to Pet Food Safety projects), it's an insatiably delicious wine. Fresh, zesty and sweet. Just what one needs in summer.

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We also had an amuse bouche, although I've completely forgotten what it was…oops!

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Our entrees were a rather balanced affair, with a light and refreshing artichoke salad, and a very sumptuous crispy bacon and yoghurt. 

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I wasn't quite sure what I was expecting when I saw 'crispy bacon and yoghurt' on the menu, but probably not something as pretty as this!  Three thick cut pieces of pork, which were crispy, as promised, in a smooth, gentle river of yoghurt, looking more like an art piece than what I might lop into my breakfast bowl in the morning! Garnished with a bit of rock melon, I was surprised that the combination worked so well, the yoghurt cutting through the richness of the pork, with a touch of tartness and the sweet rock melon wrapping it all up, almost providing a honey flavour to the pork. 

Awesome.

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For the main affair, Brad opted for the Amish Chicken (a little googling tells me that the chickens are raised by Amish families, so are essentially organic. The chickens themselves aren't religious…I think). It was everything you could have asked for, aromatic, with rosemary filling the air, tender and so succulent. It was also an incredibly generous serving which took Brad a little while to get through. 

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I chose the Dayboat Sea Scallops, which upon arrival, were pretty impressive, with each scallop two thirds the size of my palm and easily an inch thick. However, the three pieces, with a gentle drizzle of sauce, a bay leaf and a bit of garnish looked quite small compared to Brad's chicken.

But my goodness, who knew that scallops could be so filling?!

Slowly cutting my way through these perfectly cooked mollusks, with a sumptuous and smooth texture, I got to really savour each bite and enjoy the beauty of great produce and really enjoyed the simple and honest way it was served.

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A side of roasted Trompette Royal mushrooms (I think, there was a choice of 5 different mushrooms) proved to be one of the richest dishes of the night! 

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Our night at Craft wrapped up with a silken chocolate pannacotta, with cherries and a complimentary profiterole treat with our bill. Perfect.

I honestly wish I had better words, or a better grasp of words (and perhaps some notes) to really give you a better idea of how wonderful my meal at Craft was. I don't think I've ever felt so well looked after and had such delicious food at the same time. 

To top off the whole experience, as we walked out of the restaurant, we were given a blueberry muffin each, for breakfast the next morning. What an awesome idea. 

To also give perspective on the level of customer service that Craft strives to provide, after leaving my review of the restaurant on Open Table, the US version version of Dimmi, I received an email from the manager at Craft, thanking me for the review. I responded asking for the name of the wine we had, and she was only happy to fulfil my request. So lovely!

Although our meal was finished, our night wasn't. Brad had been doing a little research on comedy in New York, and we discovered that the Upright Citizens Brigade Theatre in Chelsea was not only near by, but also did free 'School Night' comedy on Wednesday nights at 11pm, where you'd get a mix of new and experimental material, from improv, to sketch, to stand-up. Um. Sign us up!

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We arrived a bit early though, but we were happily directed to the Trailer Park Lounge a few blocks away, where I think Brad and I were a little overdressed in. I think this is what you would call a 'dive bar'? (Obviously I'm not very cool)

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With a cheeky and cheery nod to trailer park culture all around America, Trailer Park Lounge had no inch of wall spared of Americana memorabilia. It was kind of like an episode of American Pickers. Awesome. 

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A couple of Pabst Blue Ribbons each, to blend in with the environment a bit more, and we found ourselves back at the Upright Citizens Brigade, for a couple of hearty laughs, which went well into the night, that when we left, the Empire State Building had lit itself up appropriately to celebrate July 4th, which the clock had just ticked over into. 



207 2nd Avenue
New York

Momofuku Ssäm Bar on Urbanspoon



48 E. 19th Street
New York

Craft on Urbanspoon


307 W. 26th Street
New York


271 W. 23rd Street
New York

Trailer Park Lounge & Grill on Urbanspoon





Tuesday, December 24, 2013

America - New York - MoMA + Crack Pie + Pizza

After a couple of days in New York City with my cousins, aunt and uncles, Brad and I found ourselves with a full 5 days for us to explore New York on our own. 

We were dropped off at our hotel in Manhattan, The New York Manhattan Hotel (or NYMA Hotel for short). 

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Accommodation in New York, Manhattan in particular, is a riot. The average room price, for something fairly standard, is $300 a night, and if you're looking for something a little special, be prepared to fling your bank account off the Brooklyn Bridge and cry a million tears (precisely). 

Fortunately for me though, with a bit of detective work (and many many hours on Trip Advisor), I came across the NYMA Hotel, which on top of being relatively affordable in July (we paid about USD 1100 for 5 nights, so roughly $200+ a night), it was in an absolutely amazing location. 

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We found ourselves in Midtown Manhattan, just two streets behind the Empire State Building (our hotel was pretty much in it's shadow), with access to 3 different subway lines within one or two blocks, and also just a short 10 minute walk from Times Square, Madison Square Park and Grand Central. 

Oh and it's smack bang in the middle of Koreatown, so there's loads of food options until the wee hours of the morning (and the odd Asian couple or three stumbling home at 7am in the morning). 

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If it's your first time visiting New York? Highly, highly recommended. More than that, although our rooms were on the cosy side, the air-con worked incredibly well (very important in the heat of summer), the wifi was speedy (although no pirating allowed…oh, me pirate? What on earth are you talking about?), the room was clean and modern, and the bed was the biggest and comfiest thing ever. I honestly, could not have asked for more. 

Sure, in future visits now with Brad, I would definitely opt to stay in Brooklyn and just soak in more of the cool vibes going on down that way, but as most of our checklist of touristy things was in Manhattan, it made much more sense to be on that big little island. 

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After checking in and dumping all our goods on the floor (I've been dubbed a 'hurricane' by friends I've travelled with), we stepped outside to be greeted with a sprinkle of rain and a wave of humidity. 

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Although New York does have a great subway system, I made a stupid decision of not buying the 7 day passes, so we ended up walking just about everywhere and really, you kind of want to walk everywhere in New York as there's just always so much to see. Plus you also work off all those burgers from Shake Shack. 

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From our hotel on 32nd street, we wandered a good 20 blocks or so, past the Rockefeller Centre, to our first touristy stop. 

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MoMa, The Museum of Modern Art.

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Oh MoMa. How I do love thee. Despite visiting last time I was in New York, just three years ago, this was one of the places I was most excited to visit on our trip, and explore with Brad. 

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Despite a slightly hefty price tag (in my opinion anyway) of $25 per person, it's quite easy to spend hours and hours in MoMa, therefore making it worthwhile. Starting from the temporary exhibitions, often a retrospective, all the way through the permanent collections, which are absolutely ginormous. 

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I ooh-ed over the Futurist's work, like this gorgeous Umberto Boccioni piece, full of life and movement, loved this piece from Mondrian, which seems a little more playful than his signature coloured blocks, and swooned for Moet and Van Gogh's mastery with the brush. 

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It's really a beautifully laid out museum, and I adore watching the progression from one movement to the next, something in contrast, that I felt MONA in Hobart was sorely lacking. Although I understand they're both trying to do very different things.

Next on my agenda, was pie. But not just any pie. Crack pie. Momofuku crack pie.

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And oh! Brad! There's a Momofuku Milk Bar just three blocks up! What a coincidence…this wouldn't be planned at all….

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The Momofuku Milk Bar on 56th Street, is a tiny little store, dimly lit even during the day, with a purple sheen from the neon light. I was a little sad that the Milk Bar's no longer did the pork buns, but hey, with cookies, pies and sweet drinks galore, there's not a whole lot you can be sad about for very long. 

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Doggy bag in hand, we wandered up to Central Park, where we wandered past the street vendors into the green and found a nice bench for Brad to drink his coffee, and for me to discover the wonder of Crack Pie. 

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Did it live up to hype? I guess I really, really, really liked it, in all it's caramel, brown sugary goodness, without the sticky texture, but instead balancing perfectly between being dense and smooth. Plus it was still slightly chilled, so in the warm weather, it was a very welcome treat. Honestly, I'm not dreaming of it now (like I do of the shakes from the Shake Shack) but still, if someone was to pop it in my hand, by the time you counted to three it would have disappeared…like magic. 

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Although we are spoilt rotten in Melbourne with parklands everywhere, there's really something about Central Park that just removes you from the city. It's really a little oasis and just kicking back (even if you are with all the other tourists) and resting your feet for half an hour is so restorative. 

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Also there's just something so exciting about seeing squirrels. We really don't get a lot of them in Melbourne hey?

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Having observed Serena and I try on a few rings in Tiffany and Co. the day before, Brad then suggested we go back to pick up a ring I had fallen in love with as a belated anniversary gift. A little Tiffany and Co. from 5th Avenue. It's a little bit special isn't it? Especially as my hair matched the colour of the box then. Clearly meant to be. 

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On the way back to our hotel to rest up and freshen up, we made a small detour to Grand Central Station…somehow I had not popped by to visit when I was last here in 2010. Honestly, I have no idea what I was doing.

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We cleverly went when it was peak hour, and got caught up in the mass crowd of commuters, going to and fro, but I loved it. It gave this decadent, gorgeous old building so much life and energy, and it was such a luxury to be able to stand in the crowd that whizzed by and be able to appreciate all the little details, the little brass chandelier here, the star signs on the ceiling over there. Gorgeous. 

For dinner that night, I had found a pizza place in the West Village that served…wait for it…gluten free pizza. We of course, had to do pizza at some point during our stay, and so made our way down to Keste…but even at 8:30pm, there was a pretty healthy queue going on. 

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Not to worry though, we popped our names on the list and Brad watched me ogle over the sweets at Sugar and Plumm…conveniently located next door. It was like we had stepped into Willy Wonka, purple and all! One side of the store was selling gelato, and although I was very sorely tempted, I opted for a few brightly coloured macarons and a gluten free chocolate chip cookie the size of my face and an inch thick. Glorious. 

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30 minutes later, we were seated inside in a very squeeze, loud and awesome smelling restaurant. You could easily tell who the owners were, with a slight twang of Italian in the accent, and kissing friends on the cheek and gossiping with them loudly over their tables as they ate. The atmosphere didn't feel put on at all, in amongst all the chaos and squeezing past tables, it felt immensely Italian in here. 

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The restaurant was opened by Roberto Caporuscio, who was born and raised just outside of Naples in Italy, before settling in New York City in 2009 and opening Keste, where he serves authentic Neapolitan pizzas. 

Now, I've never had pizza in Naples, so I can't actually comment on it's authenticity, but it's definitely quite a different approach to pizza compared to what Melbourne's into at the moment. 

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Of course, we stupidly we make the mistake of ordering a pizza each, so we're both faced with giant plates, twice the size of our faces, with pizza. And not just any pizza. I'm talking, bit pillowy bases, loaded up with tomato sauce and lots of stretchy stretchy cheese. Despite me complaining about the size, that certainly didn't stop us from mopping up the lot. Oh dear.

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Brad had ordered the margherita (he's a bit of a classic boy) and I got the margherita with salami. Although my gluten free base was lacking the char and colour, and therefore some of the flavour, that the regular base had, I was still very impressed with the texture, and the lightness they were able to bring to the dough. Definitely nothing like cardboard, like you occasionally come across in Melbourne!

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Although service at times could be a little bit indifferent, we had a great time at Keste, and certainly did not leave hungry!  

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As we left, I noted many, many restaurants on the same street that I would have loved to visit, as I skipped over to investigate menus in windows, and check out opening hours, but alas, we would not find ourselves back in West Village again after that trip. Something I can only hope to rectify if I find myself back in NYC soon!

15 w 56th st
New York, 10019

Momofuku Milk Bar on Urbanspoon


257 Bleecker Street
West Village
New York, 10014

The Back Room at Sugar and Plumm on Urbanspoon


271 Bleecker Street
West Village
New York, 10014

Kesté Pizza & Vino on Urbanspoon